Roubion Bearing Overhaul

Tools Needed

  • 7900 bearing removal tool
  • 7902 bearing removal tool
  • 7900/7902 bearing press tool
  • Grease Gun (included with frame)
  • (2) ll/16” or adjustable wrenches
  • Pliers
  • Loctite 242 or 243
  • Mallet
  • Seal pick
  • Metric Allen wrench set
  • Torque wrench.

Step 1: Remove Lower Link

The Bronson was designed to be serviced very easily, and does not require removal of cranks, bb, rear wheel or brake to service the pivots. Feel free to leave it fully assembled.

  1. Using a 5mm Allen wrench, remove the two bolts from the non-drive side of the lower link.
  2. Use a 6mm Allen wrench to remove the tapered washers from the pivot axle. Wedge the Allen wrench into the tapered washer and twist it to pop the tapered washer out.
  3. Using an 8mm Allen wrench, loosen and remove the pivot axles.
  4. You may need to tap them out from the drive side once they are fully unthreaded, as sometimes there will be too much friction to pull them out by hand.

Step 2: Remove Caps and Seals from Lower Link

  1. You should be able to remove all 4 bearing caps by hand.
  2. Pull all 4 bearing seals out with a seal pick or awl. A small blade will work in a pinch.

Step 3: Remove Lower Link Bearings

  1. You will need the 7902 bearing removal tool- the larger of the two tools. Assemble the remover as shown, with the smaller jaws inside the bearing. The flat face of the tool should sit on the bearing.
  2. Slide the removal driver in from the opposite side between the two jaws of the removal tool. Push until the flat face on the driver bottoms on the jaws.
  3. Using a rag or some other sort of padding, hang one half of the link off of a table or vise anvil. If a vise is available, you can clamp the link using soft jaws during bearing removal.
  4. Use a mallet or hammer to tap bearings out while holding the link to the table.
  5. Repeat for the other 3 bearings.

If you have difficulty removing any of the bearings, see the end of these instructions for an alternate method.

Step 4: Clean Lower Link

Once all of the bearings are removed, clean the inside of the link to remove old grease and dirt. It is important to have the inside of the link clean, so the loctite on the pivot axle is not contaminated later.

Step 5: Install New Lower Link Bearings

  1. Assemble the press tool onto the link as shown, with the open side of the bearings facing in.
  2. Tighten the nuts by hand to snug everything up. Make sure the bearings and bearing drivers are aligned properly with the link.
  3. Use a pair of 11/16” or adjustable wrenches to press bearings in to the bottom of the bores. Stop immediately if one is going in crooked. Remove it and try again.
  4. Repeat for other pair of bearings.
  5. Press the seals on with the smooth side in. It is important to get these seated all the way, so use a blunt object (a 5mm Allen wrench works well) to press the outer diameter of the seal all the way down.
  6. Apply a small dab of grease to the protruding part of the bearing caps and install ,all of them into the seals. Rotate them to ensure there is not excessive friction from the seals. If any are rubbing, remove the cap and re-seat the seal.

Step 6: Install Lower Link

  1. Clean pivot axles, bolts, and tapered washers of grease and loctite.
  2. Install lower link assembly onto the swingarm first. Make sure it is oriented so ,that the bump stop properly contacts the swingarm yoke.
  3. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads, and coat the external surface of the slotted end ,of the axle with grease.
  4. Use an 8mm allen wrench to thread the axle through the link and into the frame.The axle should be only snug- not tight. Think of it like adjusting a headset- you want it as loose as possible while still removing any lateral play. It will vary slightly, but tightening it to 35 in/lbs is a pretty safe bet. This is not very tight....
  5. Apply grease to the external surface of one of the tapered washers, and install one of the M6 bolts through it. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads, and tighten to 100 in/lbs.
  6. Repeat steps c- e for the front pivot.

Step 7: Remove Upper Link

  1. Use a 6mm allen wrench to remove the rear end of the shock.
  2. Remove the seatstays from the upper link as you did the lower link. Sometimes the collet axles get hung up, especially the lower pivot on the upper link. If the non-drive side seatstay starts bowing out when you unthread this axle, tap it back in once you have unthreaded it about halfway (opening a small gap between the seatstay and link). It should come out easily once you have done this once, but you may need to loosen and tap a couple of times progressively to get this one out.
  3. Remove the upper pivot axle and remove upper link.

Step 8: Remove Upper Link Bearings

  1. These should come out just as the lower link bearings did. See step 3.1-3.4 Use the smaller tool as shown to remove the small upper bearings.

If you have difficulty removing any of the bearings, see the end of these instructions for and alternate method.

Step 9: Install New Upper Link Bearings

  1. All 4 upper link bearings should have seals on both sides. Install them so the black seal faces out- and blue in.
  2. For installing the upper bearings, don’t use the press adaptors. Just tighten the nuts right onto the bearings.
  3. Apply a small dab of grease to the protruding part of the bearing caps and install all of them into the links.

Step 10: Install Upper Link

  1. Clean pivot axles, bolts, and tapered washers of grease and loctite. Apply loctite to the threads, and coat all external non-threaded surfaces of the axle with grease.
  2. Use a 5mm allen wrench to thread the smaller axle through the link and into the frame. The axle should be only snug- not tight. Think of it like adjusting a headset- you want it as loose as possible while still removing any lateral play. It will vary slightly, but tightening it to 35 in/lbs is a pretty safe bet. This is not very tight....
  3. Apply grease to the external surface of the small tapered washer, and install the M5 bolt through it. Apply loctite 242 to the threads, and tighten to 90 in/lbs.
  4. Repeat steps a-c for the lower pivot, and torque the M6 bolt to 100 in/lbs.
  5. Apply Loctite 242 to the shock bolt and install the shock onto the upper link.
  6. Torque to 140 in/lbs.

Step 11: Add Grease to Lower Link

  1. Follow the instructions included in the grease gun package to load a grease cartridge into the gun. Squeeze the trigger until you get a consistent flow with no air pockets.
  2. Use a 9/16” or adjustable wrench and some pliers to loosen the nozzle on the gun. Hold the nut stationary and loosen the knurled cap with pliers. A vice with axle clamps also works to hold the knurled cap.
  3. Don’t loosen the cap too much, just enough where you can press the gun onto the grease fittings on your lower link.
  4. Once it pops onto the fitting, tighten the knurled cap down so the gun grips the fitting.
  5. Fill the link until you feel the pressure increase, then stop.

Derailleur Hanger Change

  1. Remove DT RWS through-axle by turning counterclockwise. Pull the handle out if need be to clear the frame stays.
  2. Use a 6mm allen wrench to remove the derailleur hanger mounting bolt.
  3. Apply loctite 242 to bolt and install new dropout. Torque to 110 in/lbs.

Troubleshooting

One of the bearings exploded when I tried to remove it- what do I do now?

Unfortunately angular contact bearings are not very strong when you side load them in the opposite direction they were designed to be loaded in. So, sometimes when removing them, they will come apart.

If this happens, remove all of the seals and balls from the broken bearing, and clean out the grease so you can see what is going on. Use the removal tool as usual, but reverse the orientation of the removal jaws. The larger jaws will grab the bearing race. Make sure the large flat face in the center of the removal jaws is flush on the bearing race. Once you have the removal driver installed, and all seems flush and flat, give the driver a couple of taps with a hammer. The race will come right out. 

PDF icon bronson_overhaul.pdf